The beans never fail us

As summer rolls to an end and I am preparing to start my first week at the school next week, I am reflecting upon this time I have had to integrate and really get to know my community. Many volunteers have told me how many books they have read, how many hikes they have been on, and how they watch a good American TV show when bored or if they just need a break. Simply by chance, my summer experience has not been the same. While I have good books to read, the ability to travel to go hiking, and my own stash of good movies, I am simply content sitting around chatting with my host family and neighbors. I feel as though I blend in well with Nicaraguan culture because I enjoy people’s company and the tranquil lifestyle of chatting at night. I hope that never ends even though my life will become a lot busier now that we are entering the school year.

A friend told me the other day, “los frijoles nunca nos fallan” which means “the beans never fail us.” I love this phrase because it speaks to the simple joys of the Nicaraguan life. For many Nicas, money comes and goes, as saving is not a common value to have in this culture. But nearly everyone finds a way to buy rice and beans. You could call it the basis of this society, but I think the real base is the community. If a family member is in trouble, doesn’t have food, or is just plain struggling, there is a whole network of people to provide help in whatever way they are able. When in a tough situation, you must go back to the basics, back to the beans, and back to the support of your family.

These communities work in amazing ways and cause me to criticize our individualistic society in the U.S. Is it really beneficial that we have a hands-off approach to family? In general, we fly the coop at 18 and return only a few times a year. It must be admitted that this way of living as neighbors with your entire family makes it hard to achieve certain educational and economic opportunities that are available. Yet there is something so beautiful about stopping by someone’s house just to say hi and chatting for the afternoon without the requirement of a phone call or advanced notice. What is truly important in our lives, the relationships we foster or economic success? Even when we have financial difficulties, the beans will never fail us, our relationships will always be there. Some say life is easier the more money you have, but I think once you pass the point of paying for your needs that statement becomes less true. It’s true, you no longer have to worry about paying for the basics, but what are you losing in the process of working long hours for a well-paying job? What are you gaining by buying a bunch of technological gadgets and spending hours fixated in using them? More importantly, what are you losing?

This is certainly not to say that life is perfectly peaceful here, free of any TV or people who keep their nose in their cell phones. However, there is definitely an appreciation of your neighbors, the relationships you have with your family, and the time that you dedicate to simply being with others. I don’t think this is an intentional part of this culture, but it is certainly one of the most positive aspects I have found in my five months here so far. I will surely continue to uncover the gems of this culture as I go along this journey.

Back to Diriamba

It is hard to believe that two and a half months have passed in site and I am already returning to visit my training town. Time passes incredibly fast though it feels as though I have not been doing much. The real work will begin in a few weeks when school begins, garden plans will be made, and teaching will occupy my days. But before I dig into the real work, I headed to Diriamba to see their “Fiestas Patronales”, the typical celebration for the town.

 

 

These fiestas are famous in all of Diriamba and even attract tourists from different parts of the world. I have mentioned the famous folkloric dances of Diriamba in which they parade through the streets with masks and music. This is precisely the festival we had been learning about for months in training. We arrived on Saturday to visit our old host families and I was shocked at how much had changed both inside and outside the house. When I left, little Claudio was four months old. Now the little “gordito” had his seven month birthday and has changed significantly. Not only this, but the house is newly painted, they renovated one of the bedrooms, and my old room is now occupied with a sewing machine and other belongings of my host mother. There are new businesses all around Diriamba, including restaurants, bars, and clothing shops. Countless times I have left Brainerd to return finding it exactly the same and now in two months it feels like a whole new Diriamba.

 

Sunday began the biggest two days of the festivities with what they call the “tope.” San Sebastian leaves from the basilica in Diriamba to process through the streets to a nearby town called Dolores where the saints from towns called Jinotepe and San Marcos also meet up. We squirmed into the packed church to await the dances that would accompany the saint through the streets. Then we placed ourselves in the door of the church to see dancers enter and leave. Finally, the saint was carried out on the shoulders of six men to the streets where the long walk would begin. We got ahead of the dancers to find a street party on the Pan American highway as people had set up cars and tents selling food and beer along the way. It was one giant tail-gating party to celebrate the saint!

 

We made our way in the hot sun to Dolores where we had to wait for San Sebastian to arrive. When the saints all united, the virgin from Dolores came out of the church and they all danced around. Describing the event cannot begin to express how it felt to be a part of so much celebration amidst people who have so much pride for their town and Nicaragua. It was a great experience in which to participate. The night ended with fireworks and a dance party in the street, though we did our own dancing on the side to avoid the crowds.

 

Monday was hailed as the “happiest” day of the parties, it is the day of San Sebastian. People swarmed the park as dancers began dancing in front of the church simultaneously. My host sister in Diriamba had a friend who was in the second story of the church and invited us to view the festivities from there. I finally got to see Diriamba from above, plus viewing the dances from that perspective was quite a sight. The firecrackers nearly gave us heart attacks because it sounded as though we were at war and were going off all weekend at least every five minutes. As the saint left the church again, my host sister’s friend began to climb the tower to put ribbons on the saint. It is a tradition that someone does every year, but we thought he had to be crazy to want to face the wind and rickety ladder. Luckily he came down safely and later that day dared to ride a bull. Some days I simply cannot forget the safety standards I grew up with no matter how long I spend in Nicaragua. That night ended with folkloric dances on a stage in the park, though we could not handle the cold for the entire show.

 

Now it is back to my sleepy little neighborhood where I know my neighbors and care for my garden on a daily basis. I get excited for vacations and seeing my friends, but I am also happy to know that I have a comfortable home to return to. After a few days away, I get excited to eat my “normal” food, sleep in my own bed, and of course laugh with my family and cuddle little Elizabeth. The night I returned I commented that I didn’t think I had laughed that hard the entire trip as I did in an hour of being home. In the end it is nice to be able to travel and see this beautiful country, but I feel like I am fully enjoying what the Peace Corps is all about, melting into this new community and maximizing my time here in this town.

Berenstain Bears and Too Much Vacation

It is a bit ironic that I have been on complete vacation for two weeks and yet I have not been blogging at all during this period that I have the most free time. I guess I have just had too many parties....

Before Christmas I got to see the lovely process of a pig slottering. Luckily, I did not have to attend the killing however I was there for a good portion of the division of meat. I believe that I have seen enough that I do not have to ever see a dead animal become food again. The background of this story is that I went to Managua with my host family to stay with my host mom´s brother and sister. Her host brother had a pig that was ready for slaughtering on the back patio. In the middle of the city. Thank god I was at the other house while that happened... So I had quite the cultural experience there and call it a success because I did not faint and did not get sick. There are pictures of which I may share later...

Christmas was a struggle to keep some of the traditions alive while in a hot country. I made piñatas (a Christmas tree and a snowman) a few days before to break at the Christmas Eve party with all of the family. Then during the day on Christmas Eve (as is tradition in my family) we baked and decorated sugar cookies. I had to cut them by hand because we didn´t have the cookie cutters. It was a fun experience and interesting because everyone kept telling me they could not decorate cookies. After I showed the five year old that he indeed could people started to open up and decorate. It was fun to share that experience with them! That night we had a party and it snowed in the form of flour and paper from the piñatas. Everyone was caught off guard with that surprise but I simply told them I could not have a Christmas without some sort of snow. We danced and waited until midnight when they set off fire crackers and sparklers in the street and we greeted eachother with wishes of a Feliz Navidad. Christmas day here is spent doing absolutely nothing, so the majority of the holiday is celebrated on Christmas Eve.

Though my family kept making fun of me for escaping during New Years, I traveled with a couple of friends to a beach place down south. It was so gorgeous and relaxing, a perfect get away. After the few days I spent away I was actually really excited to get back to my new home and reconnect with my host family. Its always a good sign that I feel so connected to this community and I have yet to really start my real work here.

So this week we all headed back to work. My host mom began to make fresco and will sell enchiladas and other fried foods this weekend. I started back up with my English classes and my work with the Environmental club at school. Our garden is growing pretty nicely, though there were chickens digging in it a bit. It will be a while before we see the produce, but it´s nice to have something started. It took a bit to get myself back in the mentality of work and that is just for the two hours a day I spend at the school. We will see if I will be ready when school is about to start in February.

I continue to have new experiences (this week I am trying to learn the process of making enchiladas) and will leave with so many new skills. My host mom continuesto tell me that I am now a Nica which here is pretty much the best compliment a volunteer can get. For now, I´m so happy to be out of the cold and melting into the Nicaraguan culture.