A Thirst for More

I have now been in Nicaragua for six months which to me feels extremely surreal. When I compare time I have spent traveling or even in school with the time I’ve spent here it seems as though time has flown by. I spent five months in Chile and yet I felt that it was five full months (though I wasn’t necessarily ready to go home by the end). A semester of classes was full of ups and downs, difficulties and celebrations, enveloped in an academic community where life never slowed down. I am six months into my service and feel as though I’m just beginning. With classes starting and attempting to enter the classroom in a respectful way life still feels very slow and the work has yet to begin. Yet I can already declare that when I boarded that first plane in Brainerd, MN I had a very different perspective of my service than I carry today. It is incredible to think about how much I have changed in six months and what my thoughts will be after two years.

I attribute my success here so far to my host family, to my ability to slowly move into the community, and to a bit of luck that I got a great site for me. Everyone in the U.S. talks about how fast time passes, how busy everyone is with school or work or family commitments, how we never slow down and time seems to escape from us. Six months flies, one year is gone, and before you know it the kids are grown and you’re old (or so they tell me). What’s interesting is that I have passed the past three months at a slower pace, enjoying each day of summer vacation, teaching classes here and there, but mostly sitting in the porch and getting to know people. I cannot say that I never had a moment to think or to sit down, I cannot say I was working extra hard or my classes took so much energy, but I can say that time flew. This goes to show me how important time is because no matter how you spend it, it will pass quickly through your fingers. Nicaragua has taught me to enjoy the moments, the little things, how to not work myself into the ground like I am so used to in the U.S.

Here I appreciate people’s different perspectives, I take into account cultural differences, and I put a lot of effort into not judging before analyzing opinions. Becoming a teacher here has definitely made me appreciate the value of education even more than I had before, however. I thirst to know more, to learn another language, to contribute to the community and to society. I have spent time researching teaching methods and considering how I can improve my contribution to Nicaraguan schools. But this is not common here. People in general do not thirst to know more, parents do not want or have time to participate in school activities and committees. Education here is not for the sake of learning, it is for the sake of creating a literate society. Students do not know how to think but instead are taught what to think. At times I have been taken aback when I ask a question that requires more thinking than regurgitation to the class and all I receive in response are blank stares.

Realizing this makes me thankful for the education I have had and the support of parents who value education. Parents here value their childrens’ education on a level that they know it is important, yet any support more than that is difficult to find. It is time in Nicaragua to foster childrens’ natural curiosity, to help them think for themselves, and use their own strengths to be successful in school.

Back to School...in February

Though there are so many differences that I notice on a daily basis, there are some experiences that are so similar to the U.S. it makes me feel as if I'm there. Back to school shopping is one of them. Whether or not a parent has money for new supplies the child wants a new brand-named backpack, cool shoes (that fit the uniform), and all new materials to be successful. I participated in back to school shopping with some family members and I was taken aback when I walked into a packed Payless store and felt as though I was in the U.S.

Teachers always talk about those students who aren't coming to class because of a lack of money for a uniform, rundown shoes, and a lack of materials. But there are also those who receive a new backpack every year like in the U.S. Kids enter the school year excited and with energy, teachers feel a bit rundown but are also full of new ideas for this coming year. After finishing almost a full week of school I'm exhausted but energized, excited to have started this year and have four new teachers to work with.

Working in two schools is also difficult because I'm always running from one school to the next and I feel like I'm missing out when I am in one place and not the other. Despite this, I believe I have chosen four great teachers who are excited to work with me and have set a tentative schedule that will keep me busy this year, just the way I'm used to in the U.S. We will have gardens at each school, science classes, working with student clubs, and much more over the span of the year. Though some days I feel nervous and unsure of myself, I feel lucky to be learning so much about this culture, life, and teaching. Here's to the academic school year of 2014!

The beans never fail us

As summer rolls to an end and I am preparing to start my first week at the school next week, I am reflecting upon this time I have had to integrate and really get to know my community. Many volunteers have told me how many books they have read, how many hikes they have been on, and how they watch a good American TV show when bored or if they just need a break. Simply by chance, my summer experience has not been the same. While I have good books to read, the ability to travel to go hiking, and my own stash of good movies, I am simply content sitting around chatting with my host family and neighbors. I feel as though I blend in well with Nicaraguan culture because I enjoy people’s company and the tranquil lifestyle of chatting at night. I hope that never ends even though my life will become a lot busier now that we are entering the school year.

A friend told me the other day, “los frijoles nunca nos fallan” which means “the beans never fail us.” I love this phrase because it speaks to the simple joys of the Nicaraguan life. For many Nicas, money comes and goes, as saving is not a common value to have in this culture. But nearly everyone finds a way to buy rice and beans. You could call it the basis of this society, but I think the real base is the community. If a family member is in trouble, doesn’t have food, or is just plain struggling, there is a whole network of people to provide help in whatever way they are able. When in a tough situation, you must go back to the basics, back to the beans, and back to the support of your family.

These communities work in amazing ways and cause me to criticize our individualistic society in the U.S. Is it really beneficial that we have a hands-off approach to family? In general, we fly the coop at 18 and return only a few times a year. It must be admitted that this way of living as neighbors with your entire family makes it hard to achieve certain educational and economic opportunities that are available. Yet there is something so beautiful about stopping by someone’s house just to say hi and chatting for the afternoon without the requirement of a phone call or advanced notice. What is truly important in our lives, the relationships we foster or economic success? Even when we have financial difficulties, the beans will never fail us, our relationships will always be there. Some say life is easier the more money you have, but I think once you pass the point of paying for your needs that statement becomes less true. It’s true, you no longer have to worry about paying for the basics, but what are you losing in the process of working long hours for a well-paying job? What are you gaining by buying a bunch of technological gadgets and spending hours fixated in using them? More importantly, what are you losing?

This is certainly not to say that life is perfectly peaceful here, free of any TV or people who keep their nose in their cell phones. However, there is definitely an appreciation of your neighbors, the relationships you have with your family, and the time that you dedicate to simply being with others. I don’t think this is an intentional part of this culture, but it is certainly one of the most positive aspects I have found in my five months here so far. I will surely continue to uncover the gems of this culture as I go along this journey.

Back to Diriamba

It is hard to believe that two and a half months have passed in site and I am already returning to visit my training town. Time passes incredibly fast though it feels as though I have not been doing much. The real work will begin in a few weeks when school begins, garden plans will be made, and teaching will occupy my days. But before I dig into the real work, I headed to Diriamba to see their “Fiestas Patronales”, the typical celebration for the town.

 

 

These fiestas are famous in all of Diriamba and even attract tourists from different parts of the world. I have mentioned the famous folkloric dances of Diriamba in which they parade through the streets with masks and music. This is precisely the festival we had been learning about for months in training. We arrived on Saturday to visit our old host families and I was shocked at how much had changed both inside and outside the house. When I left, little Claudio was four months old. Now the little “gordito” had his seven month birthday and has changed significantly. Not only this, but the house is newly painted, they renovated one of the bedrooms, and my old room is now occupied with a sewing machine and other belongings of my host mother. There are new businesses all around Diriamba, including restaurants, bars, and clothing shops. Countless times I have left Brainerd to return finding it exactly the same and now in two months it feels like a whole new Diriamba.

 

Sunday began the biggest two days of the festivities with what they call the “tope.” San Sebastian leaves from the basilica in Diriamba to process through the streets to a nearby town called Dolores where the saints from towns called Jinotepe and San Marcos also meet up. We squirmed into the packed church to await the dances that would accompany the saint through the streets. Then we placed ourselves in the door of the church to see dancers enter and leave. Finally, the saint was carried out on the shoulders of six men to the streets where the long walk would begin. We got ahead of the dancers to find a street party on the Pan American highway as people had set up cars and tents selling food and beer along the way. It was one giant tail-gating party to celebrate the saint!

 

We made our way in the hot sun to Dolores where we had to wait for San Sebastian to arrive. When the saints all united, the virgin from Dolores came out of the church and they all danced around. Describing the event cannot begin to express how it felt to be a part of so much celebration amidst people who have so much pride for their town and Nicaragua. It was a great experience in which to participate. The night ended with fireworks and a dance party in the street, though we did our own dancing on the side to avoid the crowds.

 

Monday was hailed as the “happiest” day of the parties, it is the day of San Sebastian. People swarmed the park as dancers began dancing in front of the church simultaneously. My host sister in Diriamba had a friend who was in the second story of the church and invited us to view the festivities from there. I finally got to see Diriamba from above, plus viewing the dances from that perspective was quite a sight. The firecrackers nearly gave us heart attacks because it sounded as though we were at war and were going off all weekend at least every five minutes. As the saint left the church again, my host sister’s friend began to climb the tower to put ribbons on the saint. It is a tradition that someone does every year, but we thought he had to be crazy to want to face the wind and rickety ladder. Luckily he came down safely and later that day dared to ride a bull. Some days I simply cannot forget the safety standards I grew up with no matter how long I spend in Nicaragua. That night ended with folkloric dances on a stage in the park, though we could not handle the cold for the entire show.

 

Now it is back to my sleepy little neighborhood where I know my neighbors and care for my garden on a daily basis. I get excited for vacations and seeing my friends, but I am also happy to know that I have a comfortable home to return to. After a few days away, I get excited to eat my “normal” food, sleep in my own bed, and of course laugh with my family and cuddle little Elizabeth. The night I returned I commented that I didn’t think I had laughed that hard the entire trip as I did in an hour of being home. In the end it is nice to be able to travel and see this beautiful country, but I feel like I am fully enjoying what the Peace Corps is all about, melting into this new community and maximizing my time here in this town.

Berenstain Bears and Too Much Vacation

It is a bit ironic that I have been on complete vacation for two weeks and yet I have not been blogging at all during this period that I have the most free time. I guess I have just had too many parties....

Before Christmas I got to see the lovely process of a pig slottering. Luckily, I did not have to attend the killing however I was there for a good portion of the division of meat. I believe that I have seen enough that I do not have to ever see a dead animal become food again. The background of this story is that I went to Managua with my host family to stay with my host mom´s brother and sister. Her host brother had a pig that was ready for slaughtering on the back patio. In the middle of the city. Thank god I was at the other house while that happened... So I had quite the cultural experience there and call it a success because I did not faint and did not get sick. There are pictures of which I may share later...

Christmas was a struggle to keep some of the traditions alive while in a hot country. I made piñatas (a Christmas tree and a snowman) a few days before to break at the Christmas Eve party with all of the family. Then during the day on Christmas Eve (as is tradition in my family) we baked and decorated sugar cookies. I had to cut them by hand because we didn´t have the cookie cutters. It was a fun experience and interesting because everyone kept telling me they could not decorate cookies. After I showed the five year old that he indeed could people started to open up and decorate. It was fun to share that experience with them! That night we had a party and it snowed in the form of flour and paper from the piñatas. Everyone was caught off guard with that surprise but I simply told them I could not have a Christmas without some sort of snow. We danced and waited until midnight when they set off fire crackers and sparklers in the street and we greeted eachother with wishes of a Feliz Navidad. Christmas day here is spent doing absolutely nothing, so the majority of the holiday is celebrated on Christmas Eve.

Though my family kept making fun of me for escaping during New Years, I traveled with a couple of friends to a beach place down south. It was so gorgeous and relaxing, a perfect get away. After the few days I spent away I was actually really excited to get back to my new home and reconnect with my host family. Its always a good sign that I feel so connected to this community and I have yet to really start my real work here.

So this week we all headed back to work. My host mom began to make fresco and will sell enchiladas and other fried foods this weekend. I started back up with my English classes and my work with the Environmental club at school. Our garden is growing pretty nicely, though there were chickens digging in it a bit. It will be a while before we see the produce, but it´s nice to have something started. It took a bit to get myself back in the mentality of work and that is just for the two hours a day I spend at the school. We will see if I will be ready when school is about to start in February.

I continue to have new experiences (this week I am trying to learn the process of making enchiladas) and will leave with so many new skills. My host mom continuesto tell me that I am now a Nica which here is pretty much the best compliment a volunteer can get. For now, I´m so happy to be out of the cold and melting into the Nicaraguan culture.

I am working...

As I sat in the kitchen today attempting to call my mom and needing an urgent answer to a baking question, my host mom was laughing at me as I explained that she is probably working. I said if I dont bake this afternoon, what will I do today? She replied, sleep?

But really, I am working, I promise. Every moment of every day (besides the time that I sleep). Though school has ended and life has calmed down, every time I sit outside of the neighbors house or go to a family party I am working. Last night I chatted with my host grandpa who told me about his life, sang songs and played guitar for me and taught me some cords. I even played a little tune on his childs size violin! And I was working.

It is hard for us so with a workaholic culture so ingrained in our lives to slow down and appreciate these moments and realize this is also part of what Peace Corps service is all about. These first few months are meant to spend integrating into the community, my host family, and Nicaraguan culture. Therefore, frying rice, receiving a washing lesson from my host mother, drinking beer with a bunch of women outside of someones house, and dancing even though I feel silly while everyone watches is all a part of the job description.

Current volunteers recently shared many pieces of advice with us for a successful service. One thing they all had in common was in telling us to accept every invitation. Youre invited to someones wedding though you dont know them? Just go. Your family goes across the street to chat though you just want to watch a movie and be alone? Just go. Your host grandpa invites you to milk a cow some day at 4am? Just say yes.

Saying yes to these invitations and enjoying these moments have allowed me to get to know my community and neighborhood even better. I am now excited to spend Christmas Eve eating and dancing with the extended family due to these experiences. Since I cant play in the snow and participate in Christmas traditions with my family back home, this is the next best thing. Happy Holidays to all!

Plastic Chairs

Oh the experiences of a Peace Corps volunteer...

After a few days of training in Managua, I boarded a bus with a couple of friends to head back to site. I bought my ticket and the woman said to me, there are only seats left in the "bancario." I of course had no idea what she was trying to tell me but did not want to wait another hour for a bus so I bought my ticket. After waiting for everyone else to get on, I was given a small plastic stool that I placed in the aisle of the bus for my ride. Nicaraguans sure do love their plastic...

I should not have been surprised considering each home has their share of plastic chairs that are used for every occasion. There are also stores dedicated entirely to plastic. Everything from chairs, to soap containers, to tupperware can be found in such stores. I guess that is one way to make an organized theme right?

The plastic chairs do come in handy for every party, though. And as I have found out, December is the month of parties. No, I never found out what La Purisima was because I was too busy attending birthday parties this weekend. A large family means you could be attending many birthdays within the span of a month. Add graduations, Christmas, and New Years and literally this will be one month of pure celebrations. I realized though, that I have definitely gotten to a point where I am comfortable in these settings, I know most of the family now and I have a lot of fun. After talking to other volunteers they basically say their advice is to accept every invitation for any occasion. So here´s to a month of celebrating!

As for Christmas, it is so far off my radar. School just ended, it is hot as heck outside, no one has decorations, and I have only heard Christmas music twice. I feel as if Christmas is as far away as I am! I do almost think that it is better this way because I can more easily ignore the fact that I will be missing all of the holiday traditions. And it sounds like I simply won´t have time to dwell on what I am missing back home which is another plus. I am just so thankful to have the host family that I do because they have truly welcomed me into the family. I hope to add to my list of skills making enchiladas and taquitos this month, among other things.

As I sit in my plastic chair at the Internet Cafe I am looking forward to a busy week of graduations and celebrations. Happy December everybody!